My favourite South Oz producer I reckon. The Ruggabellus Barossa Valley Fluus 2013 - Grenache, Mataro, Cinsault and Syrah - has brought sexy back for this style with such unassuming style and finesse all the while walking in to the room loaded with sweaty hairy armpits; its super-suave and bogan all in one package; Sort of like The Drones - band not spy object.
Anywhoo, the wine. Dusty graphite on the nose with concentrated black fruit and savoury black olive brininess too. The palate has a very clear line of savoury gaminess and black fruit all held together with precise fine graphite like tannins. Theres almost a hint of lip smacking fish sauce at the back. This is as close to Pinot Noir from the Barossa Valley I reckon. I just love it!!!
Drink with peppered rare steak
Drink till 2018 96
Screwcap
13.6%v/v $29-$32
We have a new club house leader folks. The François Villard Cornas L'appel des Sereines Syrah 2011 is quite simply sexyasnuts!!!! Tart concentrated blackberry, grippy black olive tapanade and subtle salty soy sauce are all the hallmarks that make cool climate Syrah/Shiraz the sexiest beast around. If this wine was a rockstar it would be a combination of Jeff Buckley, Mick Jagger, Jimi Hendrix and Madonna; just oozing sex appeal. Thats it. Thats all I've got on this beast.
Drink with lust
Drink till empty, or 2016 98
Quality cork 13%v/v $28
You can throw all the cliches you want at this one, but finally I am releasing my best of 2013. But hey, if James Halliday can release the Wine Companion in August with the following year's title on it with current release wines then, 'what the heckity heck bang chuck', as my five year old son Henry would say. Sorry James.
There is also a new moniker to add to the blog: The Paul Keating Wine, '...the recession we had to have' here becomes, 'the wine you have to have'. Yeah, what are you going to do hey.
So, 2013 hey. For me it was dominated by reds and a few steamy imports. So without further adieu and the blah blahs, here we have the best of 2013.
Mac Forbes Strathbogie Ranges RS16 Riesling 2013 - a most beautiful wine with the RS16 effectively telling the drinker that it has 16 grams per litre of residual sugar. But you wouldn't know. Sexy as nuts this one.
Man O' War Waiheke Island Dreadnought 2009 - pretty much the perfect Right bank blend you can have; from the Right bank or for anywhere for that matter. Stunning balance of fruit weight and minerality and an early club house leader.
BK Adelaide Hills Cult Syrah 2012 - the 2011 of this was my fave for 2012 and an example of certain wine experts going far to fucking early in writing off 2011 (Just today sampled a Geelong 2011 Pinot Noir that was simply singing!!!). Superb balance of cool climate Syrah - blackberry, soy sauce and black olive tapanade. Will not be the last time you see those tasting notes typed. Sorry no pic, must have deleted.
Sutton Grange Bendigo Fairbank Rose 2013 - Not only the best Rose's of last year but almost the top dog. A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a squirt of Merlot (yes Merlot you dilettantes), this wine got me with its classic onion skin colour and funky fermier cider mid palate. Oink oink!!!
Precipice Yarra Valley Syrah 2012 - Pipped at the post for wine in show at the Yarra Valley Wine Show. Not bad for a bloke making his first wine on his own. And the bloke is Marty Singh. Watch this name.
Cavallotto Piedmont Dolceto d'Alba 2011 - I love Dolcetto and so should you: tart, crunchy, little tickle of herbs, earth, sex and other wicked stuff. Just get it.
The Melbourne Gin Company - Save the World - drink Gin. This one. Go on. Nice one Marksy!!!
Il Borghetto Toscana Montigiano Sangiovese 2011 - This is the wine that stopped me dead in my tracks. Seriously. What a wine. Seriously (again), this wine could be confused with a rootin-tootin red Burgundy. It is that good.
Giovanni Almondo Piedmont Roero Arneis 2010 - A wine that delivers an uncanny balance of tart bitter lemon and grapefruit with beautiful ripe pear and quince. A stunner.
Vinea Marson Heathcote Syrah 2008 - Only the Bard can do this justice. A near perfect wine, but 100/100 really.
So there you have it. There were definitely some wines that are unlucky not to feature; Stoney Vineyard, Abbazia Di Novacella and Wickhams Road. But hey, 2014 is a big year, or 10 months to go anyway.
But the Paul Keating wine for 2013 - Il Borghetto Toscana Montigiano Sangiovese 2011. Twas the clubhouse leader back in September and kept the lead all the way to midnight December 31, 2013.
Special thanks and recognition to John, Paul, George and Ringo and the all time classic 'Revolver' playing throughout my banging of keys. xxooxx
The coolest of cool climate Syrahs; cool label, cool wine maker, cool cool. SuperCoola!!!
The Precipice Yarra Valley Hyde Park Vineyard Syrah 2012 is the first solo outing by Oakridge stalwart Marty Singh and what a first outing indeeed. The wine is jam packed with concentrated blackberry, black olive tapanade and soy sauce; all classic cool climate characteristics I reckon. The wine is just off the charts and keeps getting cooler with the lookalike Brunswick Barista hipster on the label. C'mon, you know you've seen a bloke like that making coffee in Brunswick somewhere!!!
Just so smokin hot!!!
Drink till 2018
Drink with BBQ lamb chops 98
Screwcap 13%v/v $33 Seddon Wine Store
The
best Rosé In Australia. That's pretty much it. Sutton Grange Bendigo Fairbank Rosé 2013. Red fruit - tart; Acid - bright;
Freshness - there. But the big winner is a flavour that you just don't see in
Rosé, be it here or the old world. The flavour is French fermier cider.I cannot explain it, its just there. And its
great. Smokin Hot Great.
Drink with ouzo cured smoked salmon, made by me and cold Drink till 2015 97 Screwcap 12.5%v/v $25 Seddon Wine Store
Last year this wine, the 2011 version, was my wine of the year. Could it be two years running? The BK Adelaide Hills Cult Syrah 2012 is a wine that I believe giving the Adelaide Hills a really bloody good name. Seriously. Blackberry - think Marengo wild if you've been down there, otherwise just think stonkingly good blackberries - earth and spice with a long line of savoury soy and green edgeness. really, its super-great and if I can give a wine like the 2011 the gong for last year, just imagine what this is like coming from a schmicko year. Anyway, I love and dig it.
Drink with sticky beef short ribs
Drink till 2018 98
Screwcap 13.5%v/v $30 Seddon Wine Store
A couple of Mondays I shuffled on down to the Imbibo annual everything-on-show day at the Fitzroy Bowls Club. I got there early so I could get away earlyish. Yeah-Nah. After all was said and done I was the last one to leave at 7.30 where a group of us went down to The Builders Arms on Gertrude Street and well, you know - dusty the next day.
Anywhoo, there were wines aplenty and this was one of my picks; the Punch Bannockburn Friends of Punch Syrah 2010. Everything about this wine rocks, and I'm loathe to say it cos Bannockburn has its own terroir, but this is very Cornas; slate, earth, blackberry, black olive tapanade and soy sauce. Yep, soy sauce. Its delish!!!
As was in August 2011, only William Shakespeare can give it true justice:
My love is as a fever, longing still For that which longer nurseth and disease; Feeding on that which doth preserve the ill, Th' uncertain sickly appetite to please. My reason, the physician to my Love, Angry that his prescriptions are not kept, Hath left me, and I desperate now approve Desire is death, which physic did expect. Past cure I am, now reason is past care, And frantic mad with evermore unrest; My thoughts and my discourse as mad men's are, At random from the truth vainly express'd; For I have sworn thee fair, and thought thee bright, Who art as black as hell, as dark as night.
Ever bet on a horse because of thew colours or the name? If you have you have also chosen your wine because of the label. This label is one of those labels.
Perched just out of reach of the kids at Seddon Wine Store, the Matthieu Barret Côtes du Rhône Petit Ours Gris (little grey bear) 2010 Syrah and Grenache blend is in prime view of us big kids and am happy to say is a constant mover. The nose is full of bright red fruit with sweet raspberry pronounced. The palate has an almost cooling feel about it with more fruit; raspberry, blackberry and licorice allsorts. The mid palate pushes most of the fruit aside with balanced acid and soft chewy tannins cleaning up all and sundry. A good wine and maybe just as fun as putting $2 each way on the jockey wearing the pretty silks.
Drink with lamb casserole
Drink till 2015 90
Quality cork 13.5%v/v $29 Seddon Wine Store
I am not the type of person to shy away from a big statement, or THE big statement, and in a year where there has been some absolute rippers released I'm going to make THE statement that the Man O' War Waiheke Island Dreadnought Syrah 2009 is the wine of the year.
Packed with wafts of white pepper, brown spice and earth on the nose, the Syrah moves in to top gear in the palate with waves of tart prickly fruit, more brown spice in the form of slightly roasted start anise, game, lip smacking minerality and fine tannins and an almost ironstone like blanket drawn across the whole mouth full. There is a lot going on but it is all in harmony. Just brilliant!!!
Drink with char grilled lamb back strap
Drink till 2019 99
Screwcap 14.5%v/v $42 Seddon Wine Store
I dream weird dreams I do. I woke this morning having just left a dream where I was at the ear of Malcolm Turnball in the caucus room of a coalition party where I was trying to get him to run against the mad monk, with him just saying why run after him when he'll just trip up in time'. See, weird.
And yes, I digress. The Head Moppa/Barossa Valley The Brunette Syrah 2011 is no contender and has no signs of tripping up. A complex nose of earth, spice and savoury olive and blackberry notes precedes a similar palate combination with earth and olive tapanade the highlight of a complex and compelling flavour profile.
Maybe someone should give Malcolm a glass of this too light a spark.
Drink with Chateaubriand
Drink till 2020 96
Screwecap 13.5%v/v $55 Seddon Wine Store
No, the world did not end. The Mayans sort of got it wrong with December 21st 2012 being cupitski for all of us mortals. Word is the Mayan's also predicted Beta VCR's would be the greatest invention since poncho's, the Spice Girls to collectively cure cancer and Corey Worthington to win a Noble Peace prize. Stick to human sacrifice next time Mayan's!!
What 2012 did bring to me was some pretty schmick wine positioned neatly in my glass. Last year saw just 6 wines for my top list. This year there are 10; 1 sparkling, 3 whites and 6 reds. Last year saw 5 whites and 1 red. More awesomeness in 2012 than 2011 I guess.
So without delay and in no particular order, here is the pick of the the 2012 tasting crop.
Viñero Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir 2010 - a new label from super-sommeliers Matt Brook and Liam O'Brien, the 2010 hit all the right notes from a cracking vintage; very cool climate and not too far off soft and sexy Chambolle-Musigny.
Between 5 Bells Geelong Red Wine 2010 - a whacky blend that just so beautifully worked; who'd have thunk that we could find a use for Zinfandel? No offense California (sic).
Albert Mann Alsace Pinot Blanc Auxerrois 2011 - continuing on my love affair with Pinot Blanc, the recent winery of the year according to Wine Spectator (I think) delivers a magestic little quaffer that delivers so much more that the price suggests. Just beautiful.
Bindi Macedon Ranges Cuvée V Chardonnay/Pinot Noir - I told you that this was going to be here. Bias or no bias, this wine just rocks.
Reichsrat Von Bulh Pfalz Riesling 2011 - I love Riesling, but what I loved about this beauty is its very unlike Rieslingness that just grabs you by the scruff of the neck and screams,' JUST DRINK ME!!!!!!!'
Fletcher Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo 2010 - my wine notes for this one were quite simple, 'Awesome. Breathtaking. Oursum. Captivating. Orsum. Sexxy.' You get that?
Best's Great Western Dolcetto 2010 - definitely bringing sexy back to Western Victoria, and definitely giving new world Dolcetto a voice.
By Farr Geelong Sangreal 2009 - Erin and I enjoyed this on Bastille Day last year in Perth. Enjoyed quite the understatement. Such brute power with such gentle force. Gary Farr knows his shit.
Sébastien Brunet Vouvray Arpent Sec 2010 - like my love for Pinot Blanc, my love affair with Vouvray also knew no bounds. I will make it a task this month to get this down at Seddon Wine Store, perhaps by the glass.
BK Wines Adelaide Hills Cult Syrah 2011 - just goes to prove that when you have a crap vintage, doesnt mean you have to make crap wine.
There you go, the top ten for 2012. And for the record, the By Farr Sangreal and BK Wines Syrah were the definate standouts. Cannot wait to see what 2013 has install.
Its the last day of the year. 2012 will be recent history this time tomorrow.
Sometime over the coming week I will compile my 'Best of 2012'. You can be sure that this wine will not only be in that list but will also feature on the podium. The BK Wines Adelaide Hills Cult Syrah 2011 . Cult indeed!
It is no secret that 2011 was fairly tough throughout south east Australia. One wine maker said to me that, 'you cannot make a turd shine but you can role it in glitter to make it sparkle'. Too true. This wine, however, shines and sparkles and quite simply perform a lap dance when considering the year should merely be flashing some boob.
So to the wine. The nose has an instant hit of brown spice - cardamon springs to mind straight away - with prickly subtle dark plum and red licorice; very northern Rhône. All very delicate and leaving me just wanting more. The palate starts with seamless soft tannins with acid flowing just after. More spice forms the mid palate with tart red fruit and more spice lingering all the way. I'm not sure how long this was; I don't time length like Robert Parker. Just superb.
Drink with smoked duck breast
Drink till 2018 98
Natural cork 13.5%v/v $32 Seddon Wine Store
There's steak on the menu tonight. Erin is off to one of her friends birthdays so steak makes an appearance tonight in my kitchen. The kids will probably have pasta or noodles but steak at about medium rare will suit me just fine.
The wine cellar is a bit skinny lately so I will get to what I'm drinking later, but if I had this gem still in there then it would be an easy option. The Shobbrook Seppeltsfield Syrah 2010. Like the 2008, this wine is very much a part of the new breed of Shiraz/Syrah coming from the Barossa. Yes, there are still wines that are all JABS, but then there are wines such as Shobbrook, Head Wines, and Vinteloper from MacVale who are all creating wines that hold more familiarity to Northern Rhone than South Australia.
So the 2010. Like the 2008 again, very dark in the glass with a faint purple hue. The nose throws up plenty of black olive and black licorice with a lick also of prickly plum. The palate has a super razor sharp acid length going on with tannins that are there, then not, then back. Strange that one. With the aid of a decanter the wine opened up wonderfully with a mix of savoury gaminess, grainy minerality and more prickly plum. Such a great wine.
Drink with porterhouse medium rare
Drink till 2020 95
Quality cork and wax seal 13.5%v/v mid $40 range Blackhearts & Sparrows, Fitzroy North
My body hurts. You see I've just spent the past few days up in vineyard at Bindi; lifting wires, dropping wires, snipping watershoots and leaving watershoots. My body hurts. That was hard work.
Now I could have come home and opened one of the many wines from Bindi I got for being a top bloke, but that would have been a little predictable don't you think! But I wanted something grand. Something schmick. The Jamsheed Beechworth Syrah 2011.
Its only a young wine but by goodness, what a young wine. Blackish purple in the glass, the nose opens up with blackfruit, black licorice and slight olive - black - tapanade. It's the new black you might say. Plenty of minerality up front with acid and silky smooth tannins riding shotgun. The wine is just super. I love it. My body still hurts.
Drink with rare roast beef and horseradish rolls
Drink till 2020 97
Diam cork with wax seal 13%v/v $44 Blackhearts & Sparrows, Brunswick
So here I am. Its 12.20am and I’m watching the replay of Super Bowl forty something-or-rather and Madonna is singing something from when it was Super Bowl twenty something-or-rather. I’m watching the replay because I am a New York Giants fan and I got through the day without finding out the score, so if you know – zip-it!
As I said, its half time and Madonna interests me as much as a hernia so I thought I’d write a post. The Jamsheed Healesville Vineyard Yarra Valley Syrah 2010. Had this one a few days ago for the third time and loved it as much as, well as much as the first I guess. Quite dense in the glass, the Healesville Syrah for me is hard to separate from Silvan or Yarra Glen, but I guess it is pretty common these days to highlight mesoclimate, so Healesville, you rock! The nose throws a good amount of tart fruit and savoury notes and a good amount of dust which suggests a good amount of chewy tannins. I suggested right. Long and persistent with acid and tight chewy tannins built around subtle raspberry and red licorice with quite an intense purity throughout the glass. All in all I loved it.
There’s a flag on the play so I’m going to wrap up. Great length and plenty of time left in the tank. And for the rest of the mesoclimates in the Valley – lift your game!
Drink with Buffalo wings, in honour of the Super Bowl Drink till 2018 96 Diam cork under wax seal 13.7%v/v $46 Albert St Food & Wine, Brunswick
This wine is not built on sun but rather the minerality that is below the ground. The Head Brunette Moppa Syrah 2010 is still very young in the bottle, but speaks to as if it had been around for five or so years. Beautiful and dark in the glass; a perfect example of ox blood if there was one, the Brunette 2010 like the 2009 has a great hallmark of tart red and dark fruit, but none of the JABS characteristics of stewed fruit and blood curdling alcohol. As I said, this wine speaks with a very mineral accent that drives both luscious tannins and squeaky clean acid. Lucky there are 5 bottles left in the 6 pack; needed to see what the little fella looked like!
Drink with rare venison Drink till 2020 96 Screwcap 13.8%v/v $40ish www.headwines.com.au
Catchy label isn’t it. The Trellis Heathcote Syrah 2009 turns out to be all of that; a Heathcote Shiraz/Syrah with a catchy label. Its dark and peppery and its got dark fruit and there’s a little bit of eucalyptus and the alcohol is prominent and its got a catchy label. Don’t know about calling it Syrah though, because as I said, its very Heathcote. But if you are in Melbourne and are wondering what to drink today, cos its such a crap day and all, this wine will warm you up.
Drink with a steak sandwich and woolly socks Drink till 2013 88 Screwcap 14%v/v sub $30 I think Blackheart & Sparrows Brunswick
Words fail me, so I’ll let someone else say it for me. The Vinea Marson Heathcote Syrah 2008…
To the onlie Begetter of these insuing Sonnets. Mr. W.H. All Happinesse. And that eternitie promised by our ever-living poet wisheth the well-living adventurer in setting forth.
T.T.
From fairest creatures we desire increase,
That thereby beauty’s rose might never die,
But as the riper should time decrease,
His tender heir might bear his memory;
But thou, contracted to thine own bright eyes,
Feed’st thy lights flame with self substantial fuel,
Making a famine where abundance lies,
Thyself thy foe, to thy sweet self too cruel.
Thou that art now the world’s fresh ornament
And only herald to the gaudy spring,
Within thine own bud buriest thy content,
And, tender churl, mak’st waste in niggarding.
Pity the world, or else this glutton be,
To eat the world’s due, by the grave and thee.
William Shakespeare; The Sonnets: 1
Drink with steak tartar
Drink till 2024
99 Diam cork 14.5%v/v $46 Purvis Cellars Balwyn and Bistro d’Orsay Collins Street
Just a brilliant wine and a smashing example of cool climate wine. The Eastern Peake Ballarat Walsh Block Syrah 2008; it’s got it all. Depth of colour, wonderful mix of fruit and black olive tapenade on the nose and seamless balance and weight of acid, tannins and red and black fruit. Like I said, this wine has it all, and drinks perfectly in the cooler months; the feel in the mouth was accentuated by how cold the bottle was.
And one more thing. This is the best wine I have had all year, so it’s no wonder it is one of Jeremy’s, from Seddon Wine Store, favourite wines right now.
Drink with lamb ragu and wet polenta Drink till 2016 99 Screwcap 13%v/v $42 from Seddon Wine Store in Victoria Street Seddon
