Sergio Bi-O Cardinia Ranges Pinot Noir 2003

This wine is still quite racy for something that has been sitting around for a while. Very translucent in the glass with layers of mashed strawberry and oak. The palate is very Burgundy, with a great mix of spice, tomato leaf, beetroot and rhubarb – a lot going on I’d say. I had this wine in a decanter for about three hours and it didn’t miss a beat with the acid still shining through right to the last drop. Really enjoyed this one. Oh yeah, it’s a Serge Carlei wine - the biodynamic pioneer in Victoria - so it's bio-organic, which is effectively biodynamic, so everyone can enjoy this one, even those odd people at ‘Le Cru’ in Albert Park.

Drink till 2012
Drink with duck pie bought from La Parisienne Pates in Carlton
91

Cork 13%v/v $30

Mount Gisborne Macedon Ranges Florina Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Australian Sauvignon Blanc is back! Not that it went anywhere, but with the Kiwi Savvy B’s monstering the local market for the last decade, Australian producers are showing our cousins across the ditch that we can hold our own.

One of the reasons for this is that Savvy B is being propagated in the right viticulture areas. Sauvignon needs a cool growing season and conditions that are not susceptible to disease in the later stages of the growing season. This means areas such as the Swan Valley, Barossa, McLaren Vale, Hunter Valley and the Riverina should stick to varieties that relish the hot steamy weather that these areas through up and leave it to the cooler districts such as Tasmania, Gippsland and the Macedon Ranges.

And it is the Macedon Ranges where we find David Ell and Mount Gisborne wines. In one of my earlier posts I spoke about David’s enthusiasm when it comes to the Ranges and to his wine. Now I have known for a while, and I must say it is always good to have a catch up with David, and the last time was in my kitchen about three weeks ago when he was good enough to drop off his current batch of wines for me to have a look at with some food – you gotta love that! Over the space of about 45 minutes David and I chatted about numerous topics, his wine obviously, but also on issues such as restaurant mark-up’s, wine media in Australia and possible remedies to get my son Henry to sleep – unfortunately this has not worked, Sigh!! But I digress.

We were talking Savvy B I recall, so here is David’s offering, Mount Gisborne Florina Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009. The Florina vineyard is about 500 metres from David’s own vineyard, and is situated on the western aspect of Mount Gisborne. This is the third Sauvignon offering from David, and he pretty much follows the normal routine when it comes to Sauvignon production; no wood with a tank fermentation. Where it differs is David does plenty of lee’s stirring to bring a bit of softness to the wine and also does not fine or filter the wine which gives it a bit of a hazy look to it with potassium bitartrate crystals (below picture) evident in the wine, but don’t fuss, they are harmless. The wine has a real softness to it without the sappy tropical feel that we get from Marlborough. The 2009 offers a lovely white floral aroma with subtle grassy notes coming through also. A very well made wine indeed.

The Mount Gisborne 2009 Sauvignon will be released from October, so be on the lookout for it at Independent wine outlets, good restaurants or direct at http://www.mountgisbornewines.com.au/

Drink till 2011
Drink with pea and goats cheese salad
90

Screwcap 14%v/v

My World Famous Potato Salad

The siren has sounded on yet another AFL season with Geelong getting over St. Kilda in an absolute classic game; I hope you are alright today Kate!

Yesterday I took my daughter Imogen over to my old friend Snowy’s house for the second year in a row so that our kids (minus Henry who was with his mum) could run amuck and the grown up’s could watch the game! It wasn’t the greatest day weather wise with rain, wind the cold being a constant factor. But the one factor of this day, and other BBQ’s that have either been attended at my place of theirs was My World Famous Potato Salad; at 4% fat free, this bad boy will clog your arteries by just being in the same room as it. When it comes to my potato salad, I have to admit that I am not very modest – It is the greatest potato salad ever, and I have the testimonials to prove it:


‘I thought mine was good, but this is the best I have ever had!!!’ – Serin
‘chew chew slurp slurp swallow – translation, ‘I’m so glad you made this today’ – Ange
‘Why won’t anyone eat my Jamie Oliver moorish salad?’ – Snowy

There you have it. So for all of you BBQers out there, here are the ingredients:

· Two kg’s of Desiree potatoes, peeled
· 250 grams of quality French butter (or the Farmers Direct stuff Erin orders)
· 200 grams quality bacon, fat left on
· Two tbsp Dijon mustard
· Three tbsp seeded mustard five tbsp of sour cream
· One tbsp of red wine vinegar
· White wine for cooking
· Three cloves of garlic
· Chives
· Salt

Now if you are going to attempt this one you are going to have to start the bacon at least 24 hours before the BBQ. Melt some of the butter in an oven proof pan on the stove with the crushed garlic on low heat so the garlic does not change colour. Once the butter has been well and truly coated on the pan, add bacon and resume the low heat for about 10 minutes. Add the remainder of butter and white wine to cover the bacon.

bacon mix before

Heat the oven to 160°C for five minutes to get some warmth happening then turn it down to about 80°C and put pan in and leave for about eight hours! Once the eight hours has ticked by, turn the bacon in the pan so it can cook through consistently and add more wine and butter if needed. Cook for a further six hours at 60°C.

...and after

After you drag yourself out of bed, have your coffee and read the paper, peel the spuds and cut them into whatever size you want and boil in salted water. Once cooked, drain off and let them cool off a bit. Once you have sampled the bacon mix at least nine times, add both mustards, sour cream, red wine vinegar and give it a good stir and then add to potatoes. This may look like a Cameron Ling centerfold, but who cares! Garnish with chives and ta da, my world famous potato salad – sexy stuff this one.

Tinpot Hut Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007

I so want to have a set of master keys for ‘Blackheart & Sparrows’; they are getting in such good wine. And the latest treat to come out of the Lygon Street shop is Tinpot Hut Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007. White pepper over black pepper up front on the nose with subtle hints of red liquorice after a bit in the decanter. The mouth is very syrupy up front, and this hangs around for a while and slides in to chocolate rum raisin layered with firm savoury tannins. Such a nice wine.

Drink till 2012
Drink with Gumbo
90

Screwcap 13%v/v $29

South Pack tasting @ Transit Lounge Fed Sqaure, August 2009

It has been four months since I finished up at ‘The Point’ restaurant in Albert Park as Head Sommelier and traded in my ‘Laguiole’ wine knife in for Huggies night time nappies and sterilising teats twice a day – oh the joys of parenthood I hear you sigh. One of the great perks of being a sommelier of a restaurant like The Point was the steady stream of invitations to what seemed to be daily wine tastings in and around Melbourne; and it is no exaggeration when I say daily!

With so many producers out there trying to sell you their product, these tastings were not only important for them, but also for the trade in knowing the product you were selling. But us sommeliers are a busy lot, so you sort of have to pick and choose the tastings that are not only going to interest you, but tastings of wines that have a realistic shot of getting on to your list.

But as I said, for four months now it has been nappies and walks and 3am feeds. So it was a quick yes that James and Claire Lance from ‘Punch’ wines got from an invite I received from them for a tasting at Transit Lounge in Federation Square put together by South Pack, a wine group repersenting new Victorian winemakers.

So on a rainy Monday afternoon I toddled off to Fed Square and to probably one of the best ‘independent’ tastings I have been to. ‘... a fiercely independent collection of likeminded souls.’, read the handout as I entered the room filled with sommeliers, restaurant managers, wine retailers and wine writers, and on show were some of the brightest and hippest producers from Victoria; Barney and David from Allies, Timo Mayer, Luke Lambert, Lincoln Riley and Adam Foster of Foster e Rocco and Syrahmi.

What made this group of winemakers ‘likeminded’, was that all of them were singing the praises of low alcohol wine. This is not to be mistaken with ‘low carb’ or ‘diet wine’, but wine that is driven by savoury tannins and piercing acid made for drinking with food, and wine not driven by massive oak, ripe fruit and seem splitting alcohol; I reckon the highest volume was about 13.5%v/v shared by a few of the bigger reds on show.

As I said, it had been a while since I have done something like this, so it was good to see my own likeminded people as well and swap the obligatory story of horror diners and more to the point, horror nappies. But back to the wine.

With glass in hand, I tried to start with whites first, but the first stop was Luke Lambert with some really sexy Nebbiolo, my favourite wine – a 2008 and 2007 release with the 2007 being the standout with great early characteristics of Nebbiolo coming through. On to Foster e Rocco and then to Punch for a catch up with Claire and James and a chat on how everything is going out at the property since the February 7 bushfires; and things are looking good with minimal damage to the vines, but not so lucky with the winery however.

On the other side of the room were Barney and David from Allies, two of the nicest blokes in the industry I reckon. On heading over there I was pleasantly greeted by David with a warm ‘Hello Tim’ – do I know this bloke from somewhere I thought, which was also very easy to read from my expression when he then politely said, ‘that’s what your name tag says’ – I told you it had been a while. So for the next 20 odd minutes I learnt a lot more about these two, and more particular their wines and vineyards, which were all dynamite and very affordable also.

From here I ventured over to ‘macforbes’ followed by Jamsheed and finally with the very affable German, Timo Mayer. Having made wine with Gembrook and now Tibooburra, Timo has firmly entrenched himself as one of the Valleys more astute, and busiest, winemakers. And his current selection under his very Chambertin label, together with Bloody Hill and Big Betty labels, puts Timo in almost every corner of the Yarra Valley.

After having a wee chat with Timo, it was time to go. A quick beer with Claire Lance and I was off to Rockpool where I was meeting some of the aforementioned likeminded heads for some ‘witty’ banter, burgers, wine and more beer as well as a debate that is still going on now – Is Twin Peaks a child of the 80’s or the 90’s? My money is in the 90’s.

Here are the highlights of a fantastic line up:

Foster e Rocco Sangiovese Rosé 2009 - a fantastic pink number for the upcoming Spring Carnival; soft in colour with fragrant palate that is both dry and refreshing.

Punch Berry’s Creek Vineyard 2008 Noble Riesling – low alcohol makes this wine not only a great drop with season tropical fruit, but also as an aperitif with heaps of zingy acid.

Luke Lambert Heathcote Reserve Nebbiolo 2007 – a super drop with gorgeous notes of Nebbiolo characteristics coming through and at Barolo alcohol levels – 13.5%v/v, not the Australian levels.

Luke Lambert Heathcote Reserve Syrah 2007 – layered with liquorice and super firm tannins, this wine will definitely demand time and a decanter when you open her up (12.5%v/v).

Syrahmi ‘Maelstrom’ Heathcote Shiraz 2008 – ripe red fruit alongside a whack of pepper and perfume; a great follow up to the 2007 ‘Don’.

Allies Tuerong Viognier Saone 2008 – a wine that is definitely a personal style rather than the big oily imitators of the Northern Rhone. There is still apricot, but with a more balanced palate with soft acid and lowish alcohol – 13.5%v/v.

Allies Heathcote Stone Axe Shiraz 2008 – an immense wine this, with deep garnet red and no over ripe fruit make this one of the standouts of the tasting. This spent 19 days on skin which ended up extracting a perfect amount of tannin to balance a very savoury palate.

Mayer Yarra Valley ‘The Doktor’ Pinot Noir 2008 – the standout wine for me; 100% whole bunch pressed wine displaying a very complex nose and palate with savoury spice and game already noticeable. And you know what Timo said about the wine, ‘...it works!!’ Yes it does!

Domaine René Engel Grands-Échezeaux Grand Cru 1996

‘A camel is a horse designed by committee’
Alec Issigonis

I know this probably doesn’t make sense, but I think it is apt, because this is not just a Pinot Noir; it is a Grand Cru from a stellar vintage that just happened to find its way in to my glass.

A magic wine! The Domaine René Engel Grands-Échezeaux Grand Cru 1996 colour is still hanging around with a bit of dirtiness about it. Toffee and caramel are all over the nose suggesting that the wine has long said goodbye to its primary fruit stage. The palate shows plenty of development with cedar, cinnamon, tart cranberry and morello cherry, almost like a fruit tart actually.

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous.

Drink till 2012
Drink with grilled quail

98
Cork $$$$ 13%v/v

Georg Breuer Terra Montosa Rheinghau Riesling 2007

Plenty to like about this wine. Straw appearance with river stones coming through on the nose – very mineral. The longer in the glass a faint hint of lime cordial was also noticed. The palate is very lean and dry with acid being the dominant attribute with lime again being noticed at the end.

We had this with some pan seared Rockling over dinner, but I opened this at lunch and had a wee glass with some twice cooked eggs, or slow cooked eggs and it was a dead-set Susan match.

Great balance, super length with layers of complexity.

Drink till 2014
Drink with slow cooked eggs or sushi
92
Quality cork $35 12%v/v